I want to thank all those who helped contribute to make my
participation in this program possible. Already in these first
couple of weeks I am growing and deepening in my understanding
of the people and issues of this land. I plan to share a variety
of writings and photos with you - descriptions of daily life in a village, the hardships of checkpoints, the
activities of nonviolence organizations in Nablus, the annual olive harvest, interactions with settlers, etc. I hope that I
am able to portray what I see in an accurate and clear manner.
"Come, eat and drink tea with us." The sun had just set on one of the final days of Ramadan, and throughout the quiet
village of Yanoun families were gathering to break the day's fast with a shared meal. A large platter of rice and nuts,
cauliflower, eggplant, and chicken was placed on the floor in the center of the room, surrounded by bowls of yogurt and
soup, fresh radishes and onions, olives and ample bread. Everyone took a seat on the floor mats,
while Um Hani, the mother of
the house, gracefully found her place and welcomed all to the meal. Drinks were poured and the evening's feast began
quickly, everyone anxious to eat after fasting since sunrise.
Conversation, sweets, and tea followed. The children dashed in and out of the room, their laughter breaking up the more
serious discussion of politics amongst the men. The women sat in a close circle around a tray of freshly picked olives,
separating out the best for pickling, discarding the twigs and leaves, and leaving the rest for the olive press. Some
green and others a deep purple, small signs of what is to fill their days to come. With the end of Ramadan, the olive
harvest begins in Yanoun.
Yanoun is a small Palestinian village of 100 people, a predominately self-sufficient farming community nestled in the
hills of the West Bank near Nablus. Olive trees fill the landscape; a rich brown soil at their base provides contrast to
the green of their leaves and the blue of the sky. Grandmothers and grandfathers, mothers and fathers, aunts and uncles,
cousins and children all share this space- a strong family network that builds its future by passing on its traditions. The
voices of sheep, bread baking in an underground oven, the sudden flight of a flock of birds, freshly brewed tea with sage,
the cracking of almond shells - all sounds and smells that characterize this rural retreat.
The supposed tranquility of this place is severely interrupted by the presence of Israeli settlers who are living and
working in an illegal outpost of Itamar Settlement located just above the houses of Yanoun. Their roads, buildings, and
floodlights create a horseshoe shaped barrier atop the hills of Yanoun, leaving the villagers a single road out. In 2002,
after five years of unrelenting harassment and attacks on the villagers, the settlers descended once again into Yanoun
threatening the lives of the people and prompting the exodus of all residents. In the months and years that have followed
the people of Yanoun have returned with the accompaniment of internationals and leftist Israelis. Since 2003 the Ecumenical
Accompaniment Program in Palestine and Israel (EAPPI) has been fulfilling this mandate to maintain an international presence
alongside the people, in order that they are able to continue living on their land into the future.
As the olive harvest begins possession, entitlement, ownership, and access to land are at the heart of the villager's
daily routine. Despite dunams of land, certain groves, or even specific olive trees being in the family for generations, what determines whether or not these Palestinians will have access to their olives is the will of the settlers.
A deep metal tray brimming with rising bread dough in hand, Najiha emerges from her home, her youngest daughter, Taghred,
by her side. She disappears around the corner for a moment, returning with a bowl of flour, ground from wheat grown in
their fields at the foot of the village.
Just ten steps down from her front door lies a crude construction that houses her underground oven of hot rocks. With a
stick she pushes aside the mound of ashes covering the oven's lid, this thick blanket of gray and red-hot has kept warm the
rocks inside in preparation for the morning's bread baking. She takes a ball of dough, flattening it on a second tray,
lifts it, and between her hands works it in the air, stretching it into a large round shape. With the oven's lid removed,
she flips the pizza shaped dough onto the hot rocks, and replaces the lid.
While the first taboun bakes Najiha's husband, Kemal, arrives, a pot of freshly brewed black tea with sage in one hand
and a plate of homemade sheep cheese in the other. Najiha places the chunks of cheese inside the oven at the edge of the
baking bread and after some minutes hands her husband the cheese - browned on all sides
- and the warm taboun, its texture
chewy where thick and crisp where thin. Breakfast is served.
Gathered around the outdoor oven on this Friday morning, it's a quiet start to a day off from school and work, a day meant to
be shared with family. This morning's bread baking ritual began the night before as Najiha's eldest daughter prepared the
dough, a straightforward combination of whole wheat flour, water, yeast, and salt kneaded for nearly thirty minutes and
requiring obvious arm strength. Daily the women make seven or eight rounds of taboun, preferred by all to the
comparatively pricey and tasteless white pita bread made in town.
As Najiha finishes baking her bread, Kemal's sister arrives ready with dough to make taboun for her family. The bread
continues to bake, the women talk, coffee is poured, Kemal sings a song
- his hum sustained, lingering in the air. With a
glance into the distance, just above the smoke rising from his cigarette, Kemal's eyes settle on the Israeli outpost lining
the ridge overlooking Yanoun. A momentary reminder that the villagers are not alone, a puff from his cigarette, and Kemal
sings on.
Karin Brown
Yanoun
EAPPI Team 24
* Taboun is a bread made in an underground oven of hot rocks. In the early morning hours, each family in Yanoun makes
their own taboun. Some have their own oven and others share their oven with a family member. Bread is not sold in Yanoun
since each family is self sufficient in this regard. We (the EA team) have to walk (an hour) or catch a ride (7 minutes) to
the nearest town of Aqraba for any bread, meat or produce purchases.
Nov 1, 2007
The Olive Harvest
There is an air of anticipation building in the village of Yanoun, as all gather outside of their homes in the early
morning waiting for the military to make their presence known. This morning is scheduled to be the first of four days
designated for olive picking in the groves above Upper Yanoun- where the village's olive trees touch the border of Itemar
settlement and are thus out of bounds for the majority of the year. The Israeli military is required to be present during
this time to offer protection for the villagers picking olives by warding off the harassment of the settlers.
No clear signal is given, no direct conversation is had, no explicit directions, neither written nor verbal are provided.
It is a matter of waiting and guessing as to when the farmers and their families are permitted to ascend into the
controversial groves. For fear of settler attacks, the farmers do not normally venture into these groves to tend to their
trees or plow their fields. This means that hundreds upon hundreds of olive trees are left uncared for throughout the
majority of the year - new growth fills out the body of the trees not allowing the olives enough sunlight, thick undergrowth
covers the base of the trees and grass grows high in the unplowed fields, sapping water from the trees and causing the
olives to be underdeveloped.
Repeat this scenario over some years, and the yield from the olive trees is dramatically impacted. An area of trees
that used to produce fifty bags of olives, now only gives five to ten bags. A tree that used to produce a gallon of oil,
now only gives a quarter. This year is widely thought of as an off-season, but the majority of the trees in Yanoun are in
especially bad shape.
Once the signal is given by Rashed, the mayor of Yanoun, the families begin the trek to the upper groves along paths well
known and well worn from years past. An excitement and energy is widespread as the villagers reach the expansive valley
filled with olive trees that they have not seen since last year's harvest. Tarps are laid out, brush is quickly cut back,
olives are hurriedly picked, branches are roughly pruned, picked olives are immediately sorted and put in sacs and with no
time for idle conversation the family moves to the next tree. The time crunch is apparent as they have only four days to
pick what used to take twenty.
Around midday a heavily armed settler approaches, dumps over a fifty kilo bag of olives representing a morning's work,
and confronts Hani - telling him that he has gone too far, crossed a line too close to the settlement, and is not allowed to
pick olives from these trees. Three Israeli soldiers join the settler, higher military and police authorities are called in,
and discussions ensue about rights and access, but it is clear as the chaotic situation develops that the settler has the
upper hand. With the forbidden areas never clearly defined by the military, Hani and the others were picking olives from
trees belonging to their families without regard for their proximity to unmarked outer border of the settlement's
outpost.
After an hour's time, having been held under threat of arrest for his transgression, Hani is finally told to leave the
area. He is given five minutes to descend from the upper olive groves and is not to return the next day. Complicating the
situation is the presence of five international Ecumenical Accompaniers and an Israeli activist, who are threatened by the
Israeli police with arrest and deportation if they remain picking olives alongside the families of Yanoun. Apparently,
unannounced to the internationals or the mayor of Yanoun, this upper olive grove had been declared a 'closed military zone'
for the duration of the olive harvest, which in effect means that Palestinians, security forces, and permanent residents
(accounting for the settlers) are allowed access, while Israelis and, by default, internationals are not.
With no option we, the Ecumenical Accompaniers, follow Hani down towards Yanoun, escaping arrest and abandoning the work
that continued in and around the olive trees. The families continued to pick, prune, and collect olives for the next three
days, free of further harassment. The settlers are apparently satisfied in having effectively curtailed the access, aid, and
accompaniment that internationals and Israelis were able to provide the Palestinians of Yanoun during the most controversial
and anxiety ridden part of the olive harvest.
Karin Brown
Yanoun
EAPPI Team 24
November 25, 2007
Picking Olives: Their Lives and Livelihood Under Threat
Awoken suddenly by loud voices entering their tent, Musleh and his family found themselves confronted by five masked
gunmen and one man dressed in army fatigues. It was one in the morning.
Musleh, his wife, and their young children had set up an encampment for the duration of the olive harvest on their land
just east of Lower Yanoun. For the sake of convenience, they were living amongst their olive trees that needed to be
harvested and pruned, rather than traveling back and forth daily from their permanent home in Aqraba. Working at a steady
pace for the last month, Musleh and his wife bore the load of the labor while their children attended school during the day.
Musleh projected that they needed ten more days to finish the picking.
With their identities obscured and large weapons in hand, Musleh was invariably at the mercy of these Hebrew speaking
men. Told they did not have the right to be on this land any longer, Musleh's family was given three days to vacate the
area. Otherwise, their lives would be in jeopardy.
This kind of night terror perpetrated by settlers from the outpost of Itemar settlement has not happened since the
international presence was established in Yanoun. At one thirty that same morning, the International House in Upper Yanoun
was targeted by those same masked gunmen, who made their presence known with a series of rocks thrown at the windows.
Petrified by the unknown intentions of the settlers, the Ecumenical Accompaniers stayed low to the ground and waited out
their night visitors.
Israeli police and military officials were contacted, the threats were not taken seriously and no immediate action to
protect the family or to punish the settlers was taken.
Resolute to complete the olive harvest, with both their lives and livelihood now under threat, Musleh and his family
continued to hastily pick and collect their olives for the next three days. Accompanied and aided by other local
Palestinians, several Ecumenical Accompaniers and international volunteers, and a couple dozen Israeli activists, all of
their trees were picked in time and without further incident. But, perhaps according to plan, the groundwork for instilling
fear once again in the villagers of Yanoun has been laid.
Karin Brown
Team 24 Yanoun
EAPPI