Global Mission Stories
from ELCA Global Mission

Vacationing in East Africa can be a challenge and joy to missionaries living in East Africa

By Lisa and Rich Hensey

We recently returned from a spring break trip ("safari") to Victoria Falls in ZAMBIA. But... it was actually more of a first exposure to East African public transportation (some 6 days coming/going), than tourist time at the falls (only 2.5 days on site). But as the saying goes... "most of the "fun" is just getting there!"

We left on a Tuesday afternoon in Trusty, our 4-WD Pajero for Mbeya where we would pick up the TAZARA Train. Brandon Mauch, our volunteer with three years from the Peace Corps in Tanzania (and fluent Kiswahili), accompanied us on the safari. Four hours later we arrived in Mbeya and spent the night at the Karibuni Center where we had some of the best pizza we've had in Tanzania. The next morning we took a taxi to the Mbeya train station.

The train was an hour late, so we didn't depart until about 1:00 p.m. We had reserved a "first-class sleeping compartment" and were anxious at what that would be. The four Henseys' had their own compartment and Brandon bunked with three new African friends in another compartment. The compartment was quite small; two bench seats, two overhead bunks, small table bolted under the window. There were four reading lights and a large overhead fan (none of which worked). Fortunately, the overhead light did work and we could open the window to get fresh air. (We were 3 rooms from the toilet - which had no running water - so we really needed fresh air!)

There was a small dining car where we could order meals: either fish and chips or chicken and chips; either eggs with toast and sausage or just eggs and toast. Every time we pulled into a station (which despite the fact we were on the EXPRESS train, was quite frequently), we had opportunities to buy fresh produce (and live chickens) without even leaving the train. As Celia says, "The Kwik Shop comes to us!" Since we were the only Wazungus (white people) on the train, we provided great entertainment for the Tanzanian & Zambian children at the train stations.

Twenty-two hours later we arrived in Zambia. Other than a slight problem with Immigration (at a cost of $50 and 1 hour) and no way to exchange money, it went well. The Immigration Officer made a dala-dala (mini-bus) wait for us so we didn't have to walk to town to get a bus for the next part of the trip. We then convinced the dala-dala driver that if he didn't give us a chance to exchange money in town, he wouldn't get paid. He accommodated us by taking us to a gas station where we traded $ for Kwacha at a horrible rate. We also bought lunch there (bread and water) before traveling for almost 3 hours in very hot, cramped quarters.

We had a good place to stay in Lusaka (capital of Zambia), but it was very far out of town. We had a wonderful meal at an Irish Pub (believe it or not), a hot bath (no shower), and a good night's sleep. The next morning we still had to exchange travelers checks (which are WORTHLESS in Africa) and buy return train tickets. (I think they don't sell round-trip tickets because no one here ever plans that far in advance.) Consequently, we didn't get the luxury bus which has comfortable, reclining seats, air-conditioning, and a toilet. Instead, we spent nearly 8 hours in a large dala-dala with barely enough room for our behinds, much less our baggage, inhaling body odor (ours and others) and diesel fumes. If we thought the trip to Lusaka was bad, it was nothing compared to the trip to Livingstone! The bus (actually, Bennett reminded us it wasn't big enough to be a bus, it was a "big dala-dala") stopped frequently, so we had plenty of opportunities to buy lunch (bread and water again).

We left home at 1:00 p.m. on Tuesday and arrived at our destination at 6:00 p.m. on Friday! Upon arrival in Livingstone, we caught a taxi to Fawlty Towers (which doesn't look anything like the one in the British TV show). Since we had not been able to make reservations in advance, we prayed they would have rooms available. When we pulled up in front, we were a little concerned by their sign stating that it was a "Back-packers Lodge". But they did have space for us at a reasonable price: Brandon rented a bed in a dorm room for $10 a night and we rented a double room with a bathroom (and an extra mattress of the floor for the kids) for $30 a night. It turned out to be heavenly! The gardens were beautiful and there was a very clean swimming pool.

After showers, a good meal, and a good night's sleep, we were ready to visit Victoria Falls the following morning. Of course, the pictures don't do it justice, because it is magnificent. At the top of the falls the Zambezi River is about a mile wide and it seems to just fall right off a cliff into a canyon 300 feet below. When it is in full flood (like now,) it forms "the largest curtain of falling water in the world". The spray from the falls can be seen 10 miles away and it totally soaks you. It is impossible to take pictures when you are close to the falls because the mist falls like rain.

We hiked to the river below the waterfall through a beautiful rain-forest. Actually, we climbed down over rocks, trying to avoid the baboons, who are known to throw rocks at tourists. By the time we emerged, our clothes had almost dried from the spray of the waterfall, but we were a sweaty mess. The kids did great, and Bennett even got to ride on the shoulders of our guide part of the way up.

After a dip in the Fawlty Towers pool, we walked into Livingstone to see the town. In many ways, it looked just like any small town in America. We walked down "main street" and explored the market. Brandon played tour guide and told us about all the historic buildings. We celebrated the day by having the best pizza we have had while living in Africa.

During our second (and last) full-day in Livingstone, we visited the Livingstone Museum and learned more about how Zambia was colonized and how it became an independent country. The afternoon, which was much hotter drier than it is Iringa, we spent in the pool. That evening we took a Sunset Cruise on the Zambezi River (above the falls). The only wildlife we saw was hippos (if you don't count the Booze Cruise partiers), but the sunset was amazing. This was the only expensive part of the trip, but it was worth it!

Before we left Livingstone on the afternoon bus, Brandon, Rich, and the kids visited the Railroad museum while Lisa repacked and bought bus tickets (which can only be bought up to 3 hours in advance). The bus really was a LUXURY bus and we all enjoyed the ride back to Lusaka. When we arrived in Lusaka it was getting dark and we didn't have a place to stay, but we had the name of a place, so the taxi took us there. The "ChaChaCha Backpackers Lodge" was just as you might imagine by the name. Rich and Brandon spent the night in a dorm room with 8 others - one of which coughed throughout the night. Even if the woman's coughing (it was a co-ed dorm room) hadn't kept Rich awake, the bed would have. He said it was like "sleeping on a picket fence". Lisa and the kids shared 2 twin beds in the room next door and fond comfort in the knowledge that the mosquito net would keep out any flying or crawling things.

The trip from Lusaka to the train station was just over 2 hours this time because we rode the nice bus. We took another nice bus from Lusaka to the train station. At the train station we learned that the train tickets we purchased were for a train car that is being renovated. So the 5 of us got put in the employees car. After the employees begrudgingly removed all their belongings, we settled in only to discover that the window would only stay up if a stick was jammed in the track. (Brandon found a good stick in the train yard) and the light switch was missing, but the wires were sticking out of the wall.

Anyway, we got first class service, which we apparently didn’t get on the ride down. We got to order off a menu and they brought the food to the compartment. The lounge had comfortable chairs and they even showed a movie! It was an uneventful trip, except for the fact that the wash room was locked throughout the trip. (Apparently the crew stored there stuff in there since we were in their room.) However, the kids thought it was fun brushing their teeth and spitting out of a moving train!

After arriving in Mbeya, we collected our car and headed home.

It was an exhausting AND relaxing trip! Although traveling with children is always more complicated, it is fun to look at things through their eyes. Most of the time they saw the inconveniences we faced as exciting rather than annoying. The Tanzanian saying, "Hamna shida" (no problem) is slowly rubbing off on us -- and that is a good thing!

The Henseys, together with their children Celia and Bennett, are serving at Tumaini University Iringa University College in Tanzania

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